DAILY ITINERARY
Day 1 -January 10th.
Arrive in Mendoza
Either this evening or tomorrow morning, we’ll sort out our Aconcagua climbing permits.
Day 2-January 11th. Mendoza to Penitente (2,400m, 7,872 ft).
In the afternoon we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp by mule.
Day 3-January 12th. Approach from Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park . We arrive at Punta de Vacas, where the mule carriers will load the equipment on the mules. We then begin the three day hike to Base Camp. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2950 m, 8,036 ft).
At the camp, we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the tent.
Day 4- January 13th. Pampa de Lenas to Casa de Piedras. We cross a bridge 500 metres upstream from the camp, heading up the east side of the valley on a good and easily followed path to Casa de Piedra (3,200m, 10,496 ft), our next camp. 6 hour hike.
Day 5- January 14th. Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina. From Casa de Piedra, we cross the Rio de las Vacas. The water can be cold and fast flowing so we will strap on our sandals and grab ahold of a mule …really, the only time mule grabbing is considered kosher. We will have to cross the Relinchos river further upstream as we enter a wide valley. This leads to the base camp at Plaza Argentina, 8 hrs walk approx. Plaza Argentina is our base camp amongst the moraines of the Relinchos Glacier (4,200 mts, 13,776 ft).
Day 6-January 15th. At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatization. We load our packs with the food, fuel, and supplies we will carry to camp 1 the next day. No more mules.
Day 7-January 16th. Carry to Camp 1, return to Plaza Argentina. We carry a part of our equipment and food for the remainder of the trip up to the next camp at 5,100m (16,728). We cross the Rio Relinchos on a bridge of penitente ice and enter an undulating area of moraine. The higher we climb, the more penitentes we see – large spikes of ice created by the unique dust/sun and wind conditions of the Andes.
The final hour we will have to navigate through a penitentes field, getting a close up view of these beautiful, natural sculptures. Camp 1 is perched atop a plateau, looking down over the path we have climbed, back towards Base Camp to which we return for the night. (Camp)
Day 8-January 17th. Rest Day. We dedicate this day to rest and recovering our energy.
Day 9-January 18th. Move to Camp 1. Today we climb back from base camp to camp 1 (5,100m, 16,728 ft) with the rest of our equipment. (Camp)
Note:: The whole ascent is non-technical. The main difficulties are caused by altitude and, potentially, acute meteorological conditions. We will be very prudent in this regard. Certain signs (e.g. the presence of lenticular clouds, denoting strong winds and changing conditions) could mean abandoning ascent or turning back.
Day 10-January 19th. Rest day
Day 11-January 20th. Carry to Camp 2. This is a hard day. We carry a part of our equipment and food up to the next camp at 5,900m (19,352 ft). Weather conditions may mean we use our crampons. We drop our food and kit to our camping area and we return to camp 1 to sleep.
Day 12-January 21. Move to camp 2 at 5,900m (19,352 ft). This camp is right at the base of some cliffs and the wind and cold can whip around here. Good thing we will have a heavy duty tent designed for Denali. It’s a fortress, and it weighs as much as a Buick. But we will be glad to have it if the winds kick up.
Day 13-January 22. Rest day.
Day 14-January 23. Carry to Camp 3 Today sees us climb for 4 hours to the next camp at around 6,000m (19,680 ft). The climb is diagonal and towards the right. We must cross the inferior, flat part of the glacier, to be able to arrive at the northern edge of the Aconcagua. The walk would be easy at sea level but with the weight and the increased altitude, it is necessary to walk slowly and carefully.
Camp 3 is placed at the same height as the Berlin refuge (on the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, and for its altitude and cover from winds. We will place our last high altitude camp here.
Note::
Above 6400 metres (20,992 ft)hard snow is sometimes encountered (varies from year to year). It is when you encounter these conditions that the crampons and ice axe come into their own. Snow-covered areas tend to be short and intermittent (maybe 150 metres of crampon-wearing at a time) and gradients are typically around 30 degrees. Fixed ropes are not used. The final 200m of ascent to the summit is on loose scree and is very tiring but not in itself dangerous. Crampons and ice axe may only be used for one day on Aconcagua. Return to camp 2.
Day 15-January 24. Move to camp 3 (High Camp)
Day 16-January 25. Rest day.
Day 17-January 26. Attempt on summit.
The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue north and join the Normal Route at 6200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and camp Piedras Blancas. We continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6,500 m). We ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where we can find strong winds, even on calm days. From here on we pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta", a 300 m channel that takes us to edge of the summit.
After an hour, we go through the Filo del Guanaco, that leads us to the summit. We reach the summit of 6,962 m (22,841 ft), where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view. We then descend to camp 3.
Day 18-January 27. Alternate attempt on the summit.
Day 19-Janaury 28. Third Summit opportunity or Descend to Plaza de Mulas (4,250 mtrs, 13,940 ft) via the Normal Route
Day 20-January 29. Descend to Plaza de Mulas, base camp for the Normal Route.
Day 21-January 30. Return to Penitentes. Overnight.
Day 22-January 31. Shuttle to Airport in Mendoza. Fly home.
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